Weekly features - june 24TH 2019
Stein Rosé Trocken 2018
Ulli Stein (and now his young protégé Philip Lardot) farms meaningful parcels of land that have a few important things in common: They are not easy to work. They are commercially unknown and therefore (most likely) barely financially viable. Finally, and most importantly: Ulli has to love them. Stein is more than a winemaker – he is a passionate advocate for the traditional, steep, slate vineyards of the Mosel. In 2010 Ulli published a manifesto warning of the threats to the region’s 2000-year-old viticultural tradition. It’s perhaps difficult to speak of an overarching “style” at Stein; or maybe it’s that the word, the concept, just doesn’t feel right.
Winemaking with Ulli is refreshingly light on “style,” on some idea projected into the vineyards, and more about what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are dry; lightness and zip are more important than gobs of fruit. Complexity is good, but not at the expense of the whole – better to be simple and well done than overdone and, well, a mess. Cut is more important than size. One last note of importance, due to his belief in the importance of old vines the family never grafted to phylloxera-resistant rootstock in the 70s when this practice was the norm. So Ulli now has a profound collection of ungrafted vines, farming around 10% of the ungrafted vines in all of Germany.
From steep slate soils; direct press and saignée; Pinot Noir with approximately 20% Cabernet and Merlot; with élevage in all stainless .
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Our wines are often more subtle and earthy than the fruit-bombs that you find on most supermarket shelves but we believe that once you unlock their charms you will be hooked for life. And since these Old World wines were made on smaller vineyards that have existed for generations they also offer quite a great bang for the buck. There are some amazing New World wines out there but they tend to cost a great deal more than we want to charge our customers. We want to be the wine portal for people of all ages and incomes who are new to wine and want to explore without breaking the bank.